When this place first opened a few months ago -- in what had previously been a baked potato takeaway called Spud Shack and before that a key-cutting shop called Monkey Business -- I was excited. Ah, a little bit of traditional Americana in my own Sheffield neighbourhood, I thought. My carnivorous friends will be able to enjoy a good pastrami or corned beef sandwich, while I can enjoy a Swiss cheese on dill rye or perhaps some fine Nova lox with some Philly on a freshly baked chewy onion bagel -- with, of course, an espresso to wash it all down.

A few days ago I finally stopped in before work for a quick lunch and an espresso. I can't really understand the "New York" part of the image. Sure, there's pastrami on the menu as well as bagels, hot dogs, and pancakes. But the only cheese available is cheddar, and the only fish on the menu is tuna, prepared the British way with sweetcorn. Ah, well, what did I expect? I will admit the "small" cheddar sandwich I had was big enough to feed an army, just like your typical American sandwich. As all sandwiches include salad and coleslaw I declined the coleslaw but went for the salad, which included sliced iceberg lettuce, sliced tomatoes, sliced peppers, black olives, sliced pickles, and sliced onions, all stuffed with the cheese into a long breadcake. It was quite satisfying with a good mixture of textures and flavours, just like your typical American subor hero sandwich.

But the coffee -- oh my god. There is a small coffee machine which automatically dispenses either big or massive cappuccinos or lattes and which cannot deal with such a civilised request as a double short. I went for the "small" Original Cappuccino, which turned out to be nearly a pint-sized cup of scalding milk with a slight coffee taste served in a giant paper cup, and of course that damn sprinkling of chocolate which I normally hate but don't resent as much when the coffee has no taste and I know I won't make it halfway through all the milk. The coffee menu is appalling. Aside from a Filter Coffee, which is probably the only sensible choice for somebody who likes coffee, the Cappuccinos include Original, Toasted Marshmallow, Toffee Cream, Hazelnut, and Amaretto, and the Latte choices are Creamy, Irish Cream, Gingerbread, or Spiced Pumpkin, which gives the impression that one has accidentally walked into an ice cream shop.

In other words, "coffee" at the New York Deli is a misnomer; "dessert" is more descriptive.

New York Deli is located next to Rajput, the area's best Indian takeaway, and within a short distance from the exquisite new Rajput Restaurant (formerly Take Five Cafe). The other food-orientated neighbours include the Sandwich Stop and the very popular New Cod On The Block, the latest chippy by the owner of the late Battersea Cod's Home on South Road and Codrophenia in Walkley Bank. I'll have to try one of New York Deli's vegetarian panini sandwiches before I can judge how well they'll compete with the local lunch market. But this so-called "cappuccino" I'm currently struggling with proves that Commonside, with all these eateries, is still devoid of decent coffee. What a cryin' shame.